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Ford Naa 12 Volt Conversion Wiring Diagram

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Ford NAA 12 volt conversion problem

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Evan

02-25-2005 05:17:00

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I recently changed my NAA over from 6 volt to 12 volt. The diagram I received with the kit was primitive, at best. I apparently got everything hooked up right, the tractor starts like a dream now. My problem is that I was never sure I had it hooked up properly to keep the battery charged. And now, after a year, the battery is completely dead and I am back to using a charger/booster to get the tractor started each time. Even after letting the tractor run for an extended period of time, the battery is dead. Any suggestions?

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awalker

04-11-2005 08:13:29

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Re: Ford NAA 12 volt conversion problem in reply to Evan , 02-25-2005 05:17:00

Ford NAA are a positive ground system (unlike the common negative ground system. I have read numerous books that state that in order to convert to a 12 volt system, you must first have a negative grounded system; the Ford NAA is a positive ground so that is probably what is draining the battery



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john in la

02-25-2005 18:08:07

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Re: Ford NAA 12 volt conversion problem in reply to Evan , 02-25-2005 05:17:00

Do you have a volt meter??? If not you can get one for less than $20 from wally world.

With the meter set on 20 volts touch the red lead to the large battery plug on the back of the alternator and the black lead to a good ground. (This bypasses any wiring or amp meter problems you may have) You should have battery voltage. (12v) Now start the tractor and see what the meter says now. It should have went up to 13.5-14.5 V. If it still reads 12v's the alternator is not charging.
Touch a jumper wire from the battery post to the #1 or F tab. This will excite the regulator. If it starts to charge you are having a excite problem with your regulator.
While I could tell you how to bypass the regulator by sticking a screwdriver in the test hole this test really does you no good since it is just as easy to replace the whole alternator instead of taking it apart and just replacing the internal regulator.
If you alternator is bad get ready to spend the bucks. A true 1 wire alternator is not cheep.
One wire alternator
You could always get a $24 alternator from auto zone and rewire the tractor to a 3 wire set up. Not really that hard. If you need help or advise with this just post back.

So tell us...... What did the test tell you??

John †

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phil(va)

02-25-2005 08:14:19

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Re: Ford NAA 12 volt conversion problem in reply to Evan , 02-25-2005 05:17:00

Simple test to do first: What is the voltage across the terminals of the battery while the tractor is running at 1500 rpm? It should be about 14 volts, or even slightly more. If not, probably charging problem. If it is putting out 14 volts charge, the problem most likely is with dead cell in the battery. In cold weather, once a cell gets low, it can go fast.



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Dave H (NY)

02-25-2005 07:27:13

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Re: Ford NAA 12 volt conversion problem in reply to Evan , 02-25-2005 05:17:00

A quick test while the tractor is running pull off one of the battery cables, if the tractor shuts off the charging system is not charging. As far as exciting the alternator if it is a three wire it is excited through the two prong connector on the rear of the alternator I forget if it's p1 or p2. I just purchased an 8N with a three wire alt and I did not like the way the last owner had it wired so I removed it and went to my local alternator repair shop and for $30.00 he converted it to the one wire setup, this makes the alternator self exciting and requires only one wire to be hooked up from the battery post of the alternator to the amp meter then to the solenoid post where the battery cable positive is hooked. It is a great and easy setup.

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evan

02-25-2005 08:33:22

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Re: Ford NAA 12 volt conversion problem in reply to Dave H (NY), 02-25-2005 07:27:13

Thanks for the info. If I remember right, we tried the battery cable test and the tractor died right away. I thought that was a problem, but a few of the people I talked to did not. I'll check the wiring harness and see if it is hooked up the way you described. One quick question, if the wire from the battery post on the alternator goes through the amp meter, could a bad amp meter be causing the battery not to charge? The whole time I have owned the tractor, the amp meter just kind of floats, I really doubt that it is actually reading correctly.
The setup I purchased is as you described, a 1 wire system, the instructions must have been dual purpose for either set up, because they talked about manually exciting the alternator. One last question. Does it matter in what direction the wire from the battery post crosses the amp meter? I was not sure if there was a correct or incorrect way to wire across the amp meter to the solenoid.

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Dave H (NY)

02-25-2005 11:44:34

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Re: Ford NAA 12 volt conversion problem in reply to evan, 02-25-2005 08:33:22

The amp meter can be non functional but not causing a no charge problem, it does matter which way the meter is connected, it should be from the alt post to the inner post of the meter from the outer post of the meter to the solenoid. All other electrical taps should be made on the solenoid side of the meter as well to show your draw. If the meter is hooked up backwards just reverse the leads from post to post to show correct polarity. If your tractor shuts down as soon as you pull the battery cable off your not getting voltage through your charge circuit.

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Larry NCKS

02-25-2005 05:40:29

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If it worked for a year . . . in reply to Evan , 02-25-2005 05:17:00

you must have gotten it wired right. There are several possibilities here. Either your battery went south, or your charging system did.

The only other possibility (if you're not jumping/boosting irectly to the battery) is bad connections or wiring. HTH



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Evan

02-25-2005 06:47:35

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Re: If it worked for a year . . . in reply to Larry NCKS, 02-25-2005 05:40:29

At some point I am going to take the battery back to get checked out. One thing I have always wondered about was in the directions, it said that I would have to "excite" the alternator by touching one of the posts. I don't claim to be an expert on electrical systems at all. I consulted a few people to see how to do this properly, but I have never gotten a solid answer on this. The ammeter on the tractor is the original one. It has never read one way or the other. I have been planning to replace it, but have not gotten to it yet.

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Scrub

02-26-2005 14:59:17

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Re: If it worked for a year . . . in reply to Evan, 02-25-2005 06:47:35

I don't know what alternator you are using but you should not have to polarize an alternator. You do have to polarize generators though. There are two system A and B systems. there are a ton of posts on both over on the N board. Good luck



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Larry NCKS

02-26-2005 19:50:50

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Polarizing vs. exciting in reply to Scrub, 02-26-2005 14:59:17

These are two different animals.

Polarizing a generator is done to get it oriented to either negative or positive ground. It's been a while since I've had to do one and somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but a momentary jumper from battery (armature) to ground does this trick.

Exciting an alternator, on the other hand, is done to initially establish a cover charge in the field circuit where an external source is not provided and is done by momentarily jumping battery to field.

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jakej

02-26-2005 09:23:45

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Re: If it worked for a year . . . in reply to Evan, 02-25-2005 06:47:35

Exciting the alt is done by using a jumper wire from the the 12V outlet and momentarly touching the 1 & 2 spade terminals. The "nseries.com"site has basic wiring for conversions for Ford. Check the wiring and polarty. The ammeter connected backwards will show discharge.

  • wiring diagram


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spud

06-28-2005 20:56:41

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Re: If it worked for a year . . . in reply to jakej, 02-26-2005 09:23:45

Jake, LOL!!! That link takes me to the nokia phone site..... Could not find the wiring diagram there... Hmmm
spud



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